16461

#16461
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Unlike the uncut polished stone in the sapphire ring, this next ring is set with a diamond, cut to form a pyramidal shape projecting from the bezel. In the 1400s the use of the cutting wheel meant that diamonds could have different outlines and facets could be cut into diamonds more easily. The stone was associated with purity and was popular with royalty.
This diamond is set into a chunky 15th-century English ring. It is a type called ‘iconographic’ because it is engraved with images of saints.
Gold finger ring with a diamond and engravings depicting the Virgin and Child (left), and St Thomas Becket (right). England, 15th century.

On one side is the crowned Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ and on the other is St Thomas Becket, kneeling at an altar with a sword impaling his head.
It is said that in the 15th century the tradition of an engagement ring set with a diamond came into practice, although the exact date is not known. In 1477 the Archduke Maximillian of Austria married Mary of Burgundy and her betrothal ring was set with a diamond.


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